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Pickaxe, practice???

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paul scothern
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Jagunco
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Pickaxe, practice??? Empty Pickaxe, practice???

Post  Tommo Sat Nov 04, 2006 3:20 am

Hi Dave

I know that you regard the pickaxe as a good weapon - what forms of practice can be applied to develop a reasonable level of skill with it?

Cheers
Steve

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Post  Dave Turton Sat Nov 04, 2006 6:07 am

where abouts are you mate?
Its one weapons thats so much easier to teach and practise in a 'class' type environment as opposed tow riting it down

its also one reason I have refused to do a DVD on it regardless of the incentives I was offered.

If you want to PM me I dont mind giving 'personal' advice.. but not 'open' advice as frankly its a weapon that cant be used 'gently' and I didnt fancy a load of 15 year olds maiming each other practising the best none blade weapon I know

Dave Turton
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Post  Ade Sat Nov 04, 2006 6:38 am

Dave,

how transferable are the pickaxe techniques to something like this?

Pickaxe, practice??? CS-91WACX

it's hickory,the right length,about 2" at the top and 1.25" at the tip.i reckon it weighs about two thirds the weight of a picky handle.

Ade
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Post  Dave Turton Sat Nov 04, 2006 9:19 am

thats n-i-c-e mate .. and I would say 60-70% of pick axe stuff could be used with that,,

hickory is a combat wood..

and a hickory pick axe handle is the daddy

but that looks like you could have some fun with it mate

cheers for posting it

Dave Turton
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Post  Ade Sat Nov 04, 2006 9:45 am

my mistake,i just checked the website and it's ASH ,not hickory.
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Post  Dave Turton Sat Nov 04, 2006 5:21 pm

dont worry Ade mate.. Ash runs a nice third to Hickory

The best two combat woods though are hickory and blackthorn

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Post  Tommo Tue Nov 07, 2006 11:53 am

Thanks Dave

I will PM you.

Cheers
Steve

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Post  Joshu's Dog Tue Nov 07, 2006 12:55 pm

The best two combat woods though are hickory and blackthorn
Blackthorn is pretty cool stuff.
If you're in the Phillipines, though, kamagong (Ironwood) and Bahi are pretty good stuff, too.
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Post  Jagunco Thu Nov 16, 2006 4:14 pm

Hi Dave

If its ok I'll pm you for some pick axe handle training as well. I converted a few Fariburn stick stuff and my limited knowlege of Jodo to it but would love to get some 'proper' tutelage.

Out of curuosity do you ever do private sessions? If so how much do you charge?
Jagunco
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Post  Dave Turton Thu Nov 16, 2006 5:07 pm

yes I do privates.. £25 per 1,25 hours..

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Post  Jagunco Fri Nov 24, 2006 11:15 am

Sounds good mate, very reasonable. I'm at Josahs Dog's place at the moment I'll touch bases with you after the new year for some sessions.

Thanks
Jagunco
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Post  PullupPastor Sat Nov 25, 2006 9:37 pm

Hi Dave and Joshus - what are the properties of a good combat wood?


Is it just the obivous of light but extremely strong/tough or are there other attributes? I can think of things like storing energy when it flexs etc - but other then that my mind is like Question

Ill bet considering the history of humanities use of wood theres a stack of properties and lore on wood.....



Allo Jonnathon you dropped him of in the dark in your redwood forest yet? Razz
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Post  Joshu's Dog Sat Nov 25, 2006 11:30 pm

Heheh, I think Jagunco survived his visit more or less intact and probably a few pounds heavier, we fed him better than he was eating at the hostel.

I'd say the main qualities of a combat wood are density and, well, not flexibility but lack of brittleness. You don't want the sucker to snap. Hard and not brittle. Good weight is a plus, actually, heavier is better than lighter.

Looking forward to Dave's thoughts on it, though.
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Post  Dave Turton Sun Nov 26, 2006 12:58 am

a compact grain is important..

whne the grain is wide you get more 'space' (for want of a better term) between the fibres, which makes the wood weaker when seasoned.

Hard woods take longer to season than soft woods.. the grain in the hard woods is really compact..

what you need is 'durability'

Hickory is nice, Irish Blackthorn even nicer..
JD I havent seen the Eastern wood you mentioned earlier..

English Oak is OK, but is expensive.

Pine is useless... Ash is OK if you arent TOO serious

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Post  paul scothern Fri Dec 29, 2006 7:02 am


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Post  Dave Turton Fri Dec 29, 2006 7:47 am

Nice one Paul.. thats a bargain mate..

how are you by the way.. long time no hear mate

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Post  Jan Fri Dec 29, 2006 7:58 am

Dave do you keep the varnish on or sand it off?

The varnish is good for protecting from knocks but essentially its going to be one use and ditch it. Then again the varnish may stop it absorbing the sticky red stuff!

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Post  paul scothern Fri Dec 29, 2006 9:27 am

Hi Dave,

nothing dramatic going on this end just building things for a living and training with lee a lot, getting married in may (ulp!). hope all's well with you.

i was in my local hardware store when i saw a bin full of hickory pickaxe handles and remembered what you said so bought a couple for me and dave m, they feel great to handle, really nice balance and weight to them. me and dave are up for some pickaxe privates in the next couple of months, will email closer to the time if you're up for it.

cheers,

paul

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Post  Dave Turton Fri Dec 29, 2006 10:37 am

ANYTIME MATE..

I usually put some tape around the sections I grip the most, that way the varnish doesnt bother me..

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Post  John RH Sun Mar 18, 2007 3:01 am

I'm a bit puzzled by the idea of training with pick-axe handles. I know that (alongside sawn off shotguns) they were one of the weapons of choice among armed robbers back in the 60s and 70s, but unless you're a road digger, how many situations are there when you could convince a court of law that you were genuinely using one as a weapon of chance in a self defence scenario?

Or is this more about training defences against attacks with pick-axe handles?

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Post  Dave Turton Sun Mar 18, 2007 1:50 pm

They are a hell of a sight more legally arguable than most weapons mate..

Take a baseball bat.. How many actual clubs playing baseball do you think there are in the UK.. only a few..

and if you just have the bat.. no balls, no gloves, no sheilds etc..and at 11pm on a saturday why have you got one in your car..

but I carried an old pickaxe head with a broken shaft, so having a new one is perectly feasable..

I have used the Pick axe handle several times in real situations and found it to be an ACE weapon...

It can be used against anything successfully other than firearms

PM me if you need more info mate

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Post  John RH Mon Mar 19, 2007 1:36 am

I have to say I'm amazed at the number of baseball bats on sale in a country where the game is rarely played....unless you include rounders which is played in a variety of social contexts (but usually uses a smaller bat)

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Post  Dave Turton Mon Mar 19, 2007 3:47 am

exactly my point ..

ALL weapons can be illegal as such.. but at least have a valid reason for having what you use at hand..

the analogy I usually use in teaching is:

Its OK for a butcher to have a long sharp knife in his hands at 10am on a saturday morning in his shop, and if attacked he uses it...
its not as OK for him to hav ethe same knife in his hands at 10PM on the same saturday in a pub and uses it.

hence pick axe handle or a bloody good second... sledge hammer shaft.. (nice)

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Post  Nick Engelen Fri Apr 13, 2007 5:58 pm

Hi,

Unfortunatly over here the main wood for tool handles going from broomsticks to shovel handles and Ice pick handles is ash. It feels light, is cheap and doesn't take impact very well.
The same with our (belgian) oak. I tried a bokken out of it but it doens't stand the impact of other bokken very well.

Kind Regards,

Nick Engelen

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Post  MJD Sat Apr 14, 2007 3:14 am

Bokkens... I have one the fencing club bought me (it's heavier than a sabre, so it's useful for building wrist strength). It's nice red oak. But the first one wasn't.

So there we were, somewhat unwisely having a bokken fight at the club (not trying to do kendo, just fighting as idiots do) and I made a parry about six inches from the tip... which snapped off. turns out my bokken was actually varnished plywood. Possibly even MDF.

I was quite impessed....
MJD
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